Pendle Hill can be a frustrating lump of rock. The most popular access route, from the village of Barley, barely skims its north-western edge, hitting the summit by means of a staircase. 

Travellers in a rush to reach Spain head for the Gare TGV, which opened in 2001. It is a good way south of the city centre in Courtine, a new suburb that was once a watery wasteland between the Durance and Rhône rivers. 

Those not in a hurry will find a far more interesting option for travel to Spain. The slow trains depart from Avignon Centre, the historic station by the walls of the old city. 

Architect Jules Bouchot also designed a similar station at Valence, down the Rhône Valley from Avignon. Both stations take architectural cues from the 7 chateau at Versailles.

Alas, the direct trains to London, Berlin and Milan are no more. The only trains from Avignon Centre that still venture beyond French borders are the thrice-daily regional services to Portbou in Spain.

There’s real drama in the changing landscapes on this route, culminating in a final stretch along the Côte Vermeille south of Perpignan to the border.